If your site has heavy clay soil, then you should not despair. Heavy clay in the Kuban are often found. Clay soil can be significantly improved; its condition can be, however, it will take a lot of time (maybe several years), a lot of physical, material costs. How to do it? Such soils require a lot of effort when processing. The terms heavy or light soils characterize their granulometric or mechanical composition. It is determined by the relative content of particles of various sizes in it. In our country, the classification of soils according to the granulometric composition of N. A. Kachinsky (1943) is usually used. It is based on the ratio of physical clay (particles less than 0.01 mm) and physical sand (particles from 0.01 to 1 mm). Heavy clay soil contains more than 80% clay and less than 20% sand.
Small particles of clay adhere closely to each other, as a result of which such soil becomes impervious to water and air. Moreover, in the absence of oxygen, the process of decomposition of organic matter is greatly slowed down. Clay soils are rich in nutrients, but if it is too acidic or alkaline, then they will not be available for plants. Due to the high density, heavy clay soils are unsuitable for growing root crops (potatoes, beets, carrots). But roses, as well as many fruit trees, feel great on them.
Heavy soils with a high percentage of clay, as a rule, contain more nutrients, but slowly warm up. Moisture falling in the form of rain or snow does not penetrate well into the lower horizons. Often it stagnates in depressions, forming the so-called saucers. Usually in such places there is acidification of the earth.
After heavy rains, a strong crust forms on the surface of heavy clay soils, which prevents the penetration of air into the lower soil horizons. And with drought - it is very compacted, cracked. At the same time, heavy clay is difficult to handle manually or mechanized. A distinctive feature is their acid reaction, which adversely affects the growth, development of most cultivated plants.
How to improve clay soil? Where to begin?
You need to start with a revision of the layout of your site, eliminating all the bumps in the terrain in order to avoid stagnation of water. Carrying out autumn digging of heavy soils, including clay soils, it is not recommended to break large lumps. Winter frosts, moisture will destroy these lumps, significantly improving the structure of the upper horizon. To clay soil does not compact even more, autumn digging must be completed before the onset of rains. And in the spring everything needs to be re-dug.
To increase the number of large mineral particles in the earth, experts at the beginning of the last century recommended using crushed brick sifted through a coarse-grained sieve for digging. It should be scattered over a plot area of 9-13 cm thick, and then scented along with fertilizers. If you carry out a similar operation for several years in a row, the clay soil can be improved beyond recognition.
It is clear that not everyone can have so many broken bricks on hand. Therefore, you can resort to a more affordable method, using plant residues (weeds, branches, bark) burnt together with the earth for this purpose. Plant residues are burned along with the roots that are stuck to the ground, and the ash thus obtained is brought in during digging. Good results are obtained by applying sand - from 0.5 to 1 bucket per square meter. When introducing crushed brick, sand or ash burned to the ground, one should not forget that the main influence on the granulometric composition of the soil is caused by the introduction of organic matter. And brick, ash or sand only enhance the effect.
It is recommended to make annually at least 1.5-2 buckets per 1 sq. Km. a meter of rotted manure (preferably horse or sheep) or compost, which is not recommended to be buried deeper than 10-12 cm. In the surface layer of clay soil, rotted manure quickly mineralizes, creates favorable conditions for the development of soil microflora, earthworms, which play a major role in increasing fertility, making it more loose, as well as air- and water-permeable.
As organic matter, peat or sawdust can be used. It is not recommended to add peat of red-brown color, as it contains a large amount of iron, which can adversely affect the growth and development of plants. As for the sawdust, they make no more than 1 bucket per square meter, wetting with a solution of urea. To do this, 150 g of urea is dissolved in 10 l of water. Pour 3 buckets of sawdust with this solution.
Experts believe that over five years with the annual introduction of organic matter, sand, the upper arable layer (15-18 cm) will turn from clay to loam. An invaluable service when introducing organic matter into the soil (especially sawdust) will be provided by biological preparations based on the mushroom tribribriderma (Trichoderma harzianum) - Gliocladin, Sternifag.
Finally, it should be noted that the use of green fertilizers (green manure) is very effective in increasing fertility. Siderata can significantly improve clay soil. They change, improve the granulometric composition of heavy soils. As siderates, you can use the crops of peas, vetch, phacelia, rapeseed, mustard, and other crops.